New York Fashion Week: Proenza Schouler Walks a Fine Line
Last season the boys of Proenza Schouler were very flamboyant in their tastes and styles, and this manifested itself as frills and ruffles all over the runway. This season, they have done a complete 180 and you are seeing some seriously switched gears with sleek contemporary lines that will be very clean, and very fresh this spring.
Key elements of this collection are very retro, with a high fashion edge. You are going to see big shoulders, tapering in very high waists, and jumpsuits, jumpsuits, jumpsuits. While Jack McCollough said preparing this collection was ‘much tougher’ his sidekick says it’s not as much about toughness as it is about confidence.
And confidence is certainly in abundance here. The PS boys are doing very well now that they have sold a portion of their business to the Valentino Group, and this extra cash flow has allowed them to launch even more products in the PS line. The accessories you see here are full scale PS and are a fashion risk if nothing else. You’ll see fuzzy bedroom slippers with heels for outdoor use, and cool round sunglasses that is now on every fashion editor’s must have list.
And the collection itself? Here you are seeing a sample of it, and though, the jumpsuits aren’t exactly jumping out at ME, they are very pretty. The collection also had an abundance of blouses and coats with dolman sleeves, selvedges exposed on outside arm seams, and a parade of models with assymetrical hairstyles that complemented the abstract nature of some of the pieces. You also saw bra cup tops in black leather and stretch knit dresses and innovative fabric selections that are awe inspiring.
The detail on the jumpsuits is seen in day wear that can be belted over sheer sleeveless button down tops, or evening selections that were stitched in swirls of silver or white and black bugle beads. Pretty! But wearable? Not too sure yet, but being PS, these jumpsuits may make for surprising results at the retail end.
All in all, yet another stunning collection from two of my favorite boys of fashion, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez.
love fashion and the veriety of tupes provided in this line. the accessories have detailed work and many new choices to choose from. this is a fasination collection. good luck to its designer.
You will be hearing about the boys of PS for a very long time I think, and I agree that their variety is alwasy stunning. Thanks for dropping by!
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I think the jumpsuits gained some popularity due to their exposure during the fashion shows.